Is collagen all hype? Scientist weighs evidence amid booming supplement market

Collagen supplements have surged in popularity with claims they smooth skin, strengthen hair and ease joint pain, but experts say separating marketing from science is difficult. Dr Xand van Tulleken, in a new book and interview, reviews the evidence and discusses how the body uses collagen and cheaper ways to support it.

The market for collagen powders, gummies and pills has expanded rapidly in recent years, buoyed by claims that the supplement can reduce wrinkles, promote glossy hair and relieve joint pain. Consumers are left to navigate a crowded retail landscape and a stream of promotional messaging that often outpaces the scientific evidence.

Dr Xand van Tulleken, who spent three years researching wellness for his book Make Me Well: a quest to understand the confusing world of wellness, examines collagen in depth in a chapter of the book and in an interview with Madeleine Finlay. In the conversation, carried by a Guardian podcast episode, he outlines what collagen does in the body, the strength of the research behind popular claims, and how people might meet their needs without resorting to costly supplements.

What collagen does

Van Tulleken describes collagen as a structural protein with roles in skin, connective tissue and joints, and he reviews the experimental and clinical evidence that has been used to support supplement claims. He cautions that while there are studies suggesting some benefits, the overall picture is complex: study designs, dosages, and outcome measures vary, and results are not uniformly conclusive.

Alternatives and practical advice

In the interview he also addresses how people might obtain the building blocks the body needs to maintain collagen without necessarily buying branded powders or pills. Van Tulleken recommends assessing the trade-off between the modest and sometimes uncertain benefits reported in studies and the cost of long-term supplementation, stressing that ordinary dietary and lifestyle approaches can play a role.

Why evaluating wellness claims is hard

The episode highlights broader challenges in the wellness sector: marketing language can exaggerate or oversimplify scientific findings, regulation of supplements differs from that of medicines, and research can be hard to interpret for consumers. Van Tulleken underscores the difficulty of translating laboratory findings into clear guidance for the public, and he urges greater scrutiny of claims made by supplement manufacturers.

Listeners interested in the full discussion can hear the interview with Madeleine Finlay in the Guardian podcast episode titled "Is collagen all hype?" and read van Tulleken’s wider investigation in Make Me Well.